Château du Plessis

Tour Guide

Artannes & Indre River

Village Information
http://www.ot-paysazaylerideau.com/fiches-communes/p-ruan.htm
http://www.ot-paysazaylerideau.com/fiches-communes/p-sache.htm
http://www.communes.com/ville-15449-monts.html

Barely 4 KM North of Thilouze, the picturesque Indre River meanders its way from East to West before joining the mighty Loire River just a few miles west of the city of Tours.  Along  its banks, the towns and villages of Saché, Pont-de-Ruan, Artanne, and Monts provide a wealth of scenic spots, recreation opportunities, and shopping resources.

This guide does not profess to be exhaustive by any stretch of the imagination, but will give you a smorgasbord of things we have enjoyed along this stretch of the lovely river.

Saché

The town of Saché was made famous by Balzac in the middle of the 19th century and later by Calder in the middle of the 20th century.  The Chateau of Saché has been converted into museum dedicated to Balzac and it is well worth visiting.  Balzac’s host when he came to Saché was a certain Monsieur Margone who also owned Le Plessis.  The local legend states that Balzac was a frequent luncheon visitor to Le Plessis when he came to Thilouze to have his shoes resoled.  Given Balzac’s reputation, locals tend to believe that the bon vivant found it convenient to visit “friends” who were staying at Le Plessis.

Across the Calder Square (you can’t possibly miss it), is the real reason we love to come to Saché.  The very best restaurant in the whole of Touraine (not our opinion only, Michelin awards it a one star rating and Gault Millau a more generous 15 with 2 red Toques) is in Saché.

Restaurant

Auberge du XIIe Siècle - 1 rue du Château – 02 47 26 88 77. We tend to favor lunch over dinner, particularly since an excellent weekday luncheon menu is very reasonably priced.  The owner chef Mr. Jimenez is very talented.  The atmosphere is a rare blend of formality and friendliness.  Not to miss, and it is only 5 to 10 minutes from le Plessis.  Be sure to call ahead, as reservations are a must.  Also be sure to check the opening days and hours, it can be a challenge.
Café Balzac – The smoky café (until January 2008 when the new non smoking law will have to be enforced), is a lively spot favored by the locals.  Rumor is (we haven’t tried it ourselves) is that it serves nice café food.
There is a decent Boulangerie and a Boucherie in Saché.  Neither are particularly worthwhile, but both have the advantage of being very close by.

Pont-de-Ruan

Three kilometers east of Saché is the charming village of Pont-de-Ruan.  In the center of the small village is a most enchanting “Moulin” (water mill) on the River Indre.  There is a parking lot near the Moulin.  You will not regret your walk along the river.
There is a convenient Boulangerie and a Flower-Gift Shop “Le Jardin de Balzac” in Pont-de-Ruan.  But the real reason to come to Pont-de-Ruan is to find goat cheese.

Goat Cheese:“La Cloche d’Or » - Avenue de la Vallée du Lys – 02 47 73 27 46. Sainte Maure is considered by serious cheese lovers to be the king of Goat cheeses.  It is easily recognizable by its log shape rolled around a straw and covered with gray ashes.  What is less obvious is that the Ste Maure AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée, the coveted label awarded to the best makers) extends well beyond the town of Sainte Maure to the south and includes Pont-de-Ruan. And you guessed it, La Cloche d’Or is a AOC Sainte Maure maker.  According to a few restaurant owners in the area, it makes the very best Sainte Maure.  Not to miss (assuming you can figure out the whimsical opening hours)

Artannes

Two and half kilometers east of Pont-de-Ruan, along the River Indre, lays the town of Artanne.  Thanks to its proximity (about 6 KM from Le Plessis), we find it convenient for a quick shopping stop.  The Château of Artanne (private), in the middle of the town, used to belong to the Archbishop of Tours.  The River Indre meanders charmingly on the outskirts of the town.  The farmers market takes place on Friday mornings.

Supermarché (Supermarket):“Dialgonal” – 5 rue des Grands Clos – 02 47 26 89 89. It is a middle size supermarket handy for last minute purchases due to its proximity.  It is located half a block from the main road into Artanne.  It does not have the convenience of the smaller “Panier Sympa” in Thilouze, nor the selection or the quality found at ATAC or SuperU (see below and under Ballan-Miré).  There is a gas station attached to it. 

Restaurant: «La Casadéenne» - 5 avenue de la Vallée du Lys – 02 47 26 80 02. This is a very convenient quick bite restaurant, located about 10 minutes from Le Plessis.  It is open for lunch except for Wednesday.  They serve mostly pizzas and stuffed crêpes, with a few large salads (warm or cold) and a daily menu.  Very reasonably priced, you can be in and out in less than one hour (a near miracle in France).  It will never receive a Michelin star, but will satisfy hungry stomachs with hearty tasty food.  The owners are very friendly, the chef more talented than suggested by the simple fare, and the atmosphere is very convivial.

Boulangerie: - 02 47 26 81 82 (call for opening hours).  Artane’s bakery, located on the corner near the market place serves the most incredible and delicious bread.  When it comes out of the oven, this huge bread is nearly five feet long.  It sits on a saw horse, and the baker slices a chunk of any size.  We usually go either for 1 pound or 1 kilo depending on how hungry we are.  You will not find a better bread in the entire region.

Monts

The next town along the River Indre, about 6 KM farther East,  is Monts, or rather the next 2 towns, the old Monts on the hillside and the new Monts along the river. 
In the old Monts there are a few traditional shops, such as a bakery, a flower shop, and a souvenir shop, as well as a two restaurants, both new since the beginning of 2007. “Au Carousel” is the nicesest of the two. Owned by a young couple it serves creative food tastefully presented. "Le Monts Gourmand" is just a tiny informal restaurant where the daily menu delivers very good value. A conveneient and nearby place for a reasonable meal. In the new Monts you will find a large camp ground, an expansive play ground along the river, a gorgeous mill (private), and two very useful shops.

Supermarché (Supermarket) “SuperU” – 02 47 26 70 50. Just off the main road (abundantly sign posted), SuperU is a very good supermarket where you will find everything you might need at reasonable prices.  There is an adjoining gas station selling gas and diesel fuel at discount prices.  We tend to prefer ATAC in Ballan-Miré, but with no particular reason.  Beginning in 2004, it is open continuously through the lunch hour and Sunday mornings, a novelty in the French countryside.

Pressing Monts Clean: Galerie Super U – 02 47 73 04 35. Bucking the trend, Madame Cuillerier washes, iron and dry cleans on premise, at reasonable prices and with short turn around (24 to 48 hours).  She does closes between 12:20 and 3:00 PM and of course is closed on Mondays and in August.  We send her all our sheets and towels.  Beware; it is closed for three weeks in August.

Please send us your own comments and experiences by Email to GdeKerchove@LePlessisThilouze.com. We will endeavor to include them in updated versions of these guides should you allow us to do so.