Château du Plessis

Tour Guide

Azay-le-Rideau, Ussé & Villaines

Town Information
http://www.ot-paysazaylerideau.fr/tourisme/p-tourisme.htm

Azay-le-Rideau is about ten kilometers from Le Plessis with all essential shops and restaurants.  There is a twice weekly market (Wednesdays and Saturdays) with convenient produce, fish, and cheese stands.  There are two good restaurants, an excellent bakery, a wonderful gift shop, and three or four tourist souvenir shops.  And of course there is the fabulous Château to visit. Nearby along the Indre River, the picturesque village of Rigny-Ussé is home to the romantic Chateau of Ussé of "Sleeping Beauty" fame. To the south, the village of Villaines-Les-Rochers is the home of a thriving wicker craft with amazing quality and prices.

Sightseeing:

Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau: "Situated on an island in the Indre river, Azay-le-Rideau was built under François I by Gilles Berthelot, a financier in his state. A bit Italian, and a bit traditional French, the exterior of the building presents a very beautiful union of styles. Balzac called it "A many-faceted diamond with the Indre as its setting". Because the building is located on an island, the park is quite pleasant, even a bit Romantic. Atlas Cedars, Bald American Cypresses, Sequoias, Ginko bilboas surround you in this magnificent English garden. The inside is entirely furnished (a rare thing in the Loire), but combines many different styles and eras. The kitchen is curiously raised off the floor. The ceremonial staircase is very innovative in style with its open Italian style balconies. As you descend the staircase (its more dangerous, but prettier than going up) your eyes will be riveted on the splendid coffered walls. Careful, the steps are uneven."

La Chatonniere: "Less than five kilometers form Azay, hidden away in a secluded valley on the road to Ligniere, crowned by 6 hectares of flowering cornflowers and poppies and with sweeping views across the forest of Chinon and the river Indre, the remarkable gardens of La Chatonniere are a carefully guarded secret. The owner Béatrice de Andia and her award winning head gardener Ahmed Azéroual have combined their skills to realize their vision and created a series of enchanting terraced gardens open to the public. The gardens vary in style and atmosphere; they awaken the senses, evoking feelings of wonder, charm and contemplation. Like a jeweled necklace adorning a pretty women’s neck they dazzle and enchant one. One is struck with admiration by the beauty of the designs, the colors of the leaf shaped vegetable garden, the patterns of the live willow woven pergolas, and the heady perfume of the 2000 planted roses. Follow the path and discover the gardens of Silence, Senses, Intelligence, Sciences, Romances, Fragrances, Elegance, Exuberance and Abundance."

Chateau de Ussé: "It's a fairy tale castle that befits the tale of "Sleeping Beauty" by Charles Perrault marvelously. A strange kind of poetry emanates from this little jewel trimmed with machicolations, turrets and tall chimneys, with pointed roofs and dormer windows, all of this set into the backdrop of the Indre river and the Chinon forest. Indeed, the combination of such diverse styles as strict Classical, High Renaissance and ostentatious Gothic contribute to the magic of the building. At the transition between the medieval defensive style and the residential comfort offered by the Renaissance, this chateau was built in the 15th century on the former site of a fortress from the 12th century, by Jacques d'Espinay, Chamberlain to Louis XI and Charles VIII. Today, the chateau is private property. The part that is visible to the public is made up of the 17th century staircase, the antechamber with its 16th century Italian cabinet and furniture from the 18th century, and the galleries on the first floor (gun collection, Dutch tapestries from the 18th century) and the second floor with its paintings. The chapel, which is hidden away in the park, contains stalls from the 17th century, a ceramic Virgin Mary by Luca Della Robbia (15th century), a series of Aubusson tapestries (17th century) and a Tuscan triptych from the 15th century."

Villaines-Les-Rochers: "Only seven kilometers south of Azay-le-Rideau, is the village troglodyte of Villaines-les-Rochers home of the Wicker Cooperative. The village became the capital of basket making with its 70 basket makers who represent more of the third of the profession, the greatest grouping of basket makers of France. The wicker weaving trade was traditionally passed form father to son. From 1975, the Co-operative knows an important evolution, and opens its doors to young people trained in the trade of basket maker in all the areas of France. More than 50 basket makers are integrated thus in the co-operative and the village. Since its creation, the Co-operative Company has adapted by the formation, of young willow growers basket makers, the opening of new markets and the creation of products, combining the wicker with wood and metal, while keeping and developing a single know-how in Europe. Among the 70 basket makers who make the co-operative are five of the Better Workmen of France as a testimonial of the local know how."

Shopping:

Boulangerie - 25 rue Nationale – «Paradis Gourmand». There are three or four bakeries in Azay.  Our favorite is Paradis Gourmand, located on a little square on Rue Nationale.  It makes the best Levain bread, and the desserts are excellent. 

Marché. The Farmers market takes place on the main square’s parking lot (Place de la République) on Saturday and Wednesday mornings .  It is rather small, but one can buy some good cheese, good produce, meats and fish.  Strangely enough there are more stalls selling clothing items and mattresses than fresh food!

Presse (Newsstand) - 5 rue du Château – La Maison de la Presse. This is the closest and most convenient place to buy the International Herald Tribune.  It is usually available by 10 AM.  Of course supply is limited.  By mid-afternoon, finding the Herald Tribune is a fifty fifty proposition.  La Maison de la Presse also sells useful local maps and guidebooks.

Pressing/Blanchisserie (Laundry and Dry Cleaning) - 16 rue Carnot – Pressing Laverie Le Camelia. Just a couple hundred yards from the Market Square, Le Camelia is reasonably convenient should you need dry cleaning or small laundry and ironing.  Those are done on premise and turn around is negotiable.  For larger items, such as sheets and table cloths, Le Camelia sends them out and here the turn around is hopeless.  Pick-up and delivery is on Tuesday between 8 AM and 10 AM.  This usually means a two weeks turn around, which is not convenient to say the least.  They only take cash (in advance!).

Poste (ATM) - Place de la République. There is a large Post Office on the market Square.  There is a 24 Hours ATM machine just outside the Post Office and is the closest to Le Plessis. Note: The Poste-ATM does NOT charge a fee for the use of the ATM (at least not with my bank).

Fleuriste (Flower Shop) - Fleurs & Nature - 11 avenue Adelaide Riché. This is an excellent flower shop located about ¼ miles west of the Market Square. Arrangements are spectacular and prices are most reasonable. There is another Flower Shop on No 4 rue Gambetta.  The selection of potted plants is probably better, but the cut flower arrangements are not as good.

Traiteur-Charcutier (Delicatesse.Caterer) - Esclasse - 22 rue National
A convenient way to eat French food at home without cooking is to stop by a Traiteur-Charcutier.  Esclasse has a good selection of Quiches, Salads, and cold cuts.  However, his specialty is making pâtés.  There are a couple dozen varieties and all are excellent.  However, for better food: see Allan-Mire.

Gift Shop– Passé Simple - 11 rue Balzac rue (between the Château and the Market Square). This is small gift shop with high quality goods.  It does not have necessarily the best selection of souvenirs to take home (there are 4 or 5 souvenir shops in Azay for that purpose), but it carries a nice selection of high quality gift and decorative items.

Superette (Mini-Market) - 15 Place Gambetta. A convenience store is located on the Place Gambetta 1 block south of the market Square.  It is just that, convenient.

Restaurants:

There are two good restaurants two modest restaurants and a number of small cafés in Azay-le-Rideau.  Our experience is limited with the cafés but we can recommend the Restaurants.  The weekday’s luncheon menus (16€ to 18€) are always good value and often the best thing to choose.  Week-ends and dinners are a bit pricier. 
L’Aigle d’Or – 10 avenue Adelaide Riché - 02 47 45 24 58  In our opinion this is the best restaurant in town.  Located ¼ mile west of the Market Square it offers traditional regional fare in a comfortably elegant (but not stuffy) décor.  Service is friendly and effective.  Reservations are a good idea.  Do not plan on a quick bite but on a leisurely 1½ to 2 hours relaxing meal.
Le Grand Monarque – 3 Place de la République – 02 47 45 40 08.  In our opinion, this is a close second.  You enter through a courtyard on the Market square, or through the hotel rue Nationale.  The food is very traditional and well prepared.  The wine list features excellent wines of Touraine.  The vast dining room is very comfortable and there is a delightful courtyard during the sunny season.  No quick bite here either.
Hotel Restaurant des 3 Lys – 2 rue du Château – 02 47 45 34 36. A very reasonable and unpretentious restaurant. 
Restaurant La Ridelloise – 36 rue Nationale – 02 47 45 46 53. This is another reasonable an unpretentious restaurant.  Quite frankly my dear, you can do better.
Relais de la Salamandre – Place du Marché.- Nice terrace on which you will be served a fairly fast lunch.  It won’t be bad, but it is best remembered for being pleasant and fast.

Please send us your own comments and experiences by Email to GdeKerchove@LePlessisThilouze.com .  We will endeavor to include them in updated versions of these guides should you allow us to do so.