Château du Plessis

Tour Guide

Chinon & Saint-Epain

Itineraries

http://www.ville-chinon.com/default.php
http://www.tourism-touraine.com/GB_en/general/page_static.php?id_article=87
http://www.saint-epain.fr
http://www.ot-paysazaylerideau.com/fiches-communes/p-villaines.htm

The area directly south of Thilouze is our secret hideaway.  Hardly any of the standard guidebooks from Michelin to Fodor, from Frommer to Cadogan, from Eyewitness to Rick Steves’ or even the Guide Bleu give more than a casual footnote to this little jewel of an area. 

To the south, the gorgeous Vienne River meanders from Sainte Maure of goat cheese fame to the historical royal city of Chinon.  Between Thilouze and the Vienne, the Manse River provides ideal terroir for some of the best wines of the Chinon AOC.  Not vast, the area from Thilouze to Sainte Maure to Chinon and back to Thilouze is about 20 KM by 30 Km by 25 KM.  Small country roads crisscross the area creating one of the most pleasant cycling network of picturesque, deserted country roads anywhere in the world (needless to say I am more than just a little biased on the subject).  
And yet, there is so much to see, so much to do in that small area. I suggest allocating two half days to full days excursions (with appropriate stops for lunch, of course).
Here are two recommended itineraries. They are drawn on the map to the right (just click to blow it up and print it if desired).  However, to prevent getting lost on small country roads, borrow the appropriate detailed local maps located in the bookshelf in the study on the first floor of le Plessis.

Itinerary No. 1 – Chinon and Wines of Chinon

The drive to Chinon first passes through the town of Saché (S19 and left on D17).  At the entrance of the town, before reaching the Château (now a Balzac museum - see “Artannes” tab on the right hand side menu) make a right on the D356 and cross the River Indre, and then immediately left on the D84, a picturesque road meandering along the river through the hamlets of Sablonnière and Perré before reaching Azay-le-Rideau (see “Azay” tab on the right hand side menu).  From Azay, follow the signs for Chinon onto the D751This most impressive road literally bisects the Chinon Forest.  For 18KM, the wide road is perfectly straight undulating through the spectacular immaculately maintained forest (watch out for speed trap radar). 

At the entrance of the town of Chinon, approximately 2KM after the roundabout, a sign on the right hand side invites you to Elsie’s Garden http://www.elsiederaedt.com/etuin.htm . Do not miss the visit (actually you need to call ahead (02 47 98 07 58) and make reservations.  Elsie De Raedt, an expert on old roses, a writer, and a TV host, decided to leave Belgium and chose the Loire Valley (Chinon) as a showcase for her well-loved roses.  On the site of an old vineyard Elsie has established a garden, a "walk through the history of the rose". It is certainly worth the detour.

Chinon, the town of Rabelais the famed author of “Gargantua” and “Pantagruel”, is nestled between the serene River Vienne and the ruins of the once formidable castle where Joan of Arc met the Dauphin, the future king Charles VII and pledged to have him crowned in Reims.  The castle was started by Henry II Plantagenet in the 12th century and finished by his son Richard the Lionhearted.  A massive Château restoration was started a couple of years ago and is scheduled to be completed in 2009, since the chateau was mostly destroyed. 

The town is best visited on foot.  The medieval narrow streets are bordered by houses built in the famous creamy Tuffeau stone.  Meander through the town and make your way slowly up the hill to visit the castle.  The Château itself is interesting to visit and the views from the ramparts over the town and the Vienne River are breathtaking. 

There are numerous cafes and small restaurants around the center of town.  There also are a couple good restaurants worth patronizing while you are there (but none “worth a special trip”).

Au Plaisir Gourmand – 02 47 93 04 37.  Michelin gives it one star and reservations are a must.  We are not sure why.  We found the food to be quite good, somewhat pretentious, and definitely pricey.  Our last (and only) visit was in 2004 and it might have improved, but we have no desire to try it again.
L’Océanic – 02 47 93 44 55.  In the center of the old town, L’Océanic is a pleasant and unpretentious restaurant focusing on seafood that is generally well prepared.  Moderately priced it is a convenient place to have a traditional multi-course meal.
Les Années 30 – 02 47 93 37 18.  Half way up to the castle, “Les Années 30 delivers good value in a pleasant somewhat funky decor.  The list of local wine is well priced and attractive.  It is a convenient stop for lunch.
Chateau de Marcay – 02 47 93 45 33.  Located less than 5KM south of Chinon, the Château de Marcay Restaurant is well worth the detour. We actually ranked it No. 4 in our list of the twenty best restaurants of Touraine (see the “Restaurant” tab on the right hand menu).  The restaurant is exceptionally good and the sommelier even better.  Let him guide you for an incredible degustation experience. 

The wines of Chinon: 
“Cabernet Franc” is the primary grape of the Chinon AOC.  Exit Chinon along the River Vienne on the D8 toward Sainte-Maure.  At the end of the town, turn left on the D21 toward Cravant-les-Cortauz and Saint-Epain.  Along the picturesque road  lie the villages of Cravant-le-Coteaux, Panzoult, Crissay-sur-Manse where one finds some of the best growers of Chinon wine.  For the complete list of growers, see http://www.chinon.com/vignerons.aspx .  The Vienne River alluviums and the mild climate have given birth to some of the best “terroirs” of the Loire Valley.  Most growers only own a few acres of Cabernet Franc, usually less than twenty acres, rarely over fifty.  While most wineries can be visited, the estates are a far cry from the luxurious Châteaux of the Bordeaux region or from the commercial tasting rooms of California’s Napa Valley.  Therefore, calling ahead and making appointments with each grower is an absolute must.  Once on the estate, you will have a wonderful time meeting with passionate wine growers each with their special story as to why their terroir, and their method is the very best.  You should be able to purchase a few bottles but expect most vintages to be exhausted.  You are also very unlikely to find most of the wine at the local wine shops and definitely not at the supermarket.  Virtually the entire production is sold within days of bottling, first to local restaurants, then to private individuals, and occasionally to wine merchants.  But then, you will find even the very best to sell for under €15 and most for between €6 and €10.

Only 8KM from Chinon, Cravant-le-Coteaux is the first and perhaps most famous of the wine growing villages of the Val-de-Vienne.  Among the growers, you might like “Gasnier” http://vignoblegasnier.com/english or “Bernard Baudry” http://www.chinon.com/vignoble/Bernard-Baudry/domaine.aspx

Another 4K to the East is the village of Panzoult.  Be very careful not to mention that you came from Cravant-les-Coteaux.  You might be taken for someone totally lacking sophistication.  Any serious wine connoisseur would surely not confuse the inferior wines of Cravant with the superior unequalled terroir of Panzoult!  You might like to make an appointment at “La Commanderie” – Philippe Pain 02 47 93 39 32 or “Chéselet” http://www.chinon.com/vignoble/charles-pain  or “Le Domaine de Beauséjour” http://www.domainedebeausejour.com/en/index.html 

From Panzoult, continue on the D21 in the direction of Saint-Épain.  After less than 7KM you will enter the small village of Crouzilles-sur-Manse.  Here you will discover one of France’s “Plus Beaux Villages”.  Take a few minutes to walk through the villages overlooking the ruins of the fortress with 15th century houses ornate by small turrets and flowered balconies. 

Continue on the D21 to Saint-Épain, where you will find a 12th century church, an interesting gate opening into a handsome 18th century house.  Saint-Épain does not offer too many other attractions, but you will find a good Boulanger, a Butcher, “Imagine” a nice gift shop, and even a gas station (overpriced).

From Saint-Épain take the D8 for a short 10KM pleasant drive along the plateau to get back to Thilouze.

Itinerary No. 2 – Ile-Bouchard and Château de Rivau
This itinerary first passes through Saché again (D19 and then left on D17).  Drive across the town toward Azay on the D17.  Less than 2KM along the road, make a left toward Villaines-les-Rochers on the D217.

Villaines-les-Rochers, stretched along the narrow valley is the center of a wickerwork cooperative (basket weaving).  Do stop at the cooperative museum and shop to see the most amazing collection of wicker products.  You will be shocked by the prices.  Believe me, it is well worth it.  This wickerwork is indestructible.  We have a cheese tray for instance (in use at le Plessis), that is five years old.  We wash it with soap and water and it looks like new.  There is also a very nice Antiquité-Brocante in the village (24 rue Haute, a short steep walk from the main street - Laurent Girault-02 47 45 37 41).  There is enough stuff hidden in the troglodyte shop to satisfy anyone (some of our small furniture in Le Plessis comes from there). 

Next to the church, take the rue de l’Église or D157.  After about 2KM turn right on the D137 for another 2KM and then left on the D132.  You are now crossing a military shooting range.  But don’t worry; they only practice shooting when there are Belgians driving through!  As you leave the military camp, the road number changes to D138 before it reach the charming village of Avon-les-Roches with its 12th century church. 

Continue on the D138 until the end then make a right on the D21 and 1KM later a left on the D757 toward L’Ile-Bouchard.  If you are ready for lunch this might be a good place to stop. 

Auberge de L’Ile – 02 47 58 63 13.  We stumbled onto the awkward looking modern building on a small island in the middle of the River Vienne four years ago.  We have gone back at least once a year and it is No. 6 on our list of the Twenty Best Restaurant sof Touraine. Inside the dining room is very modern but with a bourgeois comfort.  One is welcomed by the proprietress sporting a punk rock hairstyle. The food is creative, but more importantly very good and the prices are rather fair.  Our subsequent visits were even better than the first.  The quality of the ingredients is only surpassed by the care the chef takes preparing them.  The experience certainly compares favorably with many starred restaurants.

Cross the bridge to the south bank of the River Vienne and take the D760 along the River toward Chinon.  Less than 3KM after leaving Ile-Bouchard you will cross the village of Tavant where you might want to visit the Church of St-Nicolas, a small 12th century Romanesque church.  Another 3KM farther on the D760 (direction Chinon) is another good place for lunch in the village of Sazilly.

Auberge du Val de Vienne- 02 47 95 26 49.  Along the Vienne is the small town of Sazilly right in the middle of some of the best Chinon vineyards.  L'Auberge du Val de Vienne”, in the Touraine Gourmande guide, was favorably compared by some American friends who own a house nearby to our favorite restaurant in the whole of Touraine, Auberge du XIIe Siècle in Saché.  We could not resist trying the restaurant and on a gloomy Sunday we entered the attractive newly remodeled dining room full of noisy customers, particularly a Belgian foursome sitting right behind us.  The décor is slightly eclectic and trendy.  The dining room is a little somber with garish lighting.  We did enjoy the food, but would not compare it to our favorite Inn in Saché.  The food and the service do not compare.  Nonetheless, we had a very pleasant lunch and would not hesitate to go back when convenient and we have done so on one occasion already.

Right after the center of the village, make a left turn on “Avenue de la Gare” and at the first chance veer right on rue du Plaisir.  Stay on the road until you see the “Château du Rivau” on your left.  http://www.chateaudurivau.com/english/home.html 02 47 95 77 47.  To quote Wikipedia: “Moated in the 1400s and humanized by the Renaissance, half attractive château, half fortress, Le Rivau is one of the most important places in the Touraine region. Twelve newly design gardens evoke the medieval art of gardening, while temporary and permanent exhibits display contemporary art.  The 12 gardens of Rivau are labeled Jardin Remarquable, a French organization that recognizes remarkable gardens. They are inspired by fairytales and legends and take the visitors in a beautiful and fantastical journey”.  We enjoyed our visit to Le Rivau.  It is a gorgeous place and the current owners have accomplished miracles to restore it to its present shape.  The gardens are simply extraordinary.

Leaving Le Rivau, take the D114 toward Ligré.  If you haven’t had lunch yet, in Ligré, turn left and meander along country roads for about 5Km to Marcay where you will enjoy a fabulous lunch at the Chatteau de Marcay (If lunch is not on the program rejoin the D749 toward Chinon)

Château de Marcay – 02 47 93 45 33.  Located less than 5KM south of Chinon, the Château de Marcay Restaurant is well worth the detour. We actually ranked it No. 4 in our list of the twenty restaurants of Touraine (see the “Restaurant” tab on the right hand menu).  The restaurant is exceptionally good and the sommelier even better.  Let him guide you for an incredible degustation experience. 

After lunch drive back on the D116 toward Chinon. Immediately after crossing the River Vienne on the D751, make a right on the D749 becoming the D8 following signs to Ile-Bouchard and Sainte-Maure.  The road is scenic but without places of interest until after Ile-Bouchard.  Note: if you want to combine itinerary 1 and itinerary 2 you might like to make a left on the D44 toward Cravant-les-Coteaux.  In Ile-Bouchard take the D760 toward Sainte-Maure.  In less than 3 KM, turn left to the village of Crouzilles.  There isn’t much there, but the village is quaint.  There are a few more wineries in Crouzilles, but none as well known as those of Cravant or Panzoult.  And maybe that is what makes them interesting.  You might like to call “La Roche Guénet” (02 47 95 24 36) or “Les Ormeaux” (02 47 58 57 95).  Note: we have not visited either winery.

From Crouzilles drive north to Crissay-sur-Manse (country road, no number).  Here you will discover one of France’s “Plus Beaux Villages”.  Take a few minutes to walk through the villages of 15th century houses with small turrets and flowered balconies.  Back on the D21 toward Saint-Épain, make a left after about 1 KM toward Neuil.  In the middle of the village (across the school, make a right toward Thilouze (this is the second sign for Thilouze, ignore the first one).  Take a look at the church in the village center, one block away from the road before continuing on your way back to Thilouze.

Please send us your own comments and experiences by Email to GdeKerchove@LePlessisThilouze.com .  We will endeavor to include them in updated versions of these guides should you allow us to do so.